Core Tip: Fan Zhongyan's "Wang and Zhang Zhang engaged in fighting tea" cloud: "Jade in the middle of Cuitao", the celadon tea is compared to the jade, and the tea is not white, but the emerald tea. Finally, it is called killing. While boiling water to the tea pot, it will be beaten with a tea pot to stir the tea soup, and then a layer of foam will form on the surface of the tea pot.
The phrase "Fengliu tea said, wine is a color media person" is well reflected in "Water Margin".
The chapter "Wang Po, Bribes and Feelings" is a detailed description of the role played by Ximen Qing in the process of setting up Pan Jinlian.
Song Jiang took Zhang Wenyuan to drink at home and made Zhang San know how to cherish, but after that, when Song Jiang was not there, this three went there, and he went to find Song Jiang. The mother-in-law kept tea and talked and became the matter.
The Water Margin also wrote a tea drinking habit in the Song Dynasty - drinking tea after a meal.
For example, Shi En used Wusong to recapture the Happy Forest, and arranged for people to send meals to Wu Song in the prison every day. "Wu Song eats a meal, it is a cup of tea." The reason for Wusong to change the cell is: "Please go to the wall room to rest in peace. It is convenient to move the tea and move the rice."
Because of a cock, Shi moved to Zhujiazhuang, Yang Xiong, Shi Xiu went to Lijiazhuang for help, and the owner Li Ying "just had breakfast with each other. After dinner, he ate tea."
However, "Water Margin" was written in the Ming Dynasty, perhaps this is the habit of the Ming Dynasty.
I will not discuss it here.
"Water Margin" wrote Wang Po tea: "Point tea, sprinkle white pine nuts, walnut meat."
There is the word "point tea" inside.
The novel reflects the history of the time, and the elegant tea method became the mainstream way for the Song people to drink tea.
Although China has a long history of drinking tea, “tea is flourishing in the Tang and Sheng in the Song Dynastyâ€, the Song Dynasty is the heyday of Chinese tea and tea culture. The style of drinking tea in the Song Dynasty was admired by the emperor, the literati, and the folk workers.
The Tang people drink tea mainly for boiling, simple and rude: first use the tea mill to crush the tea bricks, crush them into powdered tea leaves, then filter the tea with tea, then put the tea into the boiling water, like Cook the dumplings and cook them three times. Finally, drink the pot of tea, and sometimes add ginger or salt to taste.
The tea production in the south of the Song Dynasty was huge, ensuring the supply of tea. Teamaking and tea drinking have made new breakthroughs. The style of drinking tea has been prevalent in all walks of life. Tea is almost a necessity in daily life with salt. Therefore, the tea house business in the Song Dynasty is very popular.
In the Song Dynasty, the tea was in Beiyuan (now the eastern part of Dongfeng Town, Jianye City, Fujian Province). The tribute tea was recognized as the famous tea by the bureaucrats. Beiyuan tea is mainly made of cake tea, which is similar to the current Pu'er style. Therefore, when ordering tea, the tea should be roasted and crushed first. The tea method includes a set of procedures such as tea, crushing, waiting for soup, flames, and tea.
Calligrapher Cai Wei used to be a transporter in Fujian, specializing in "Tea Record". The last chapter on tea, the next article, introduces the method used in Jian'an folk tea fight. And "the book in the stone" and self-written transcripts, popular in the world. Later, there was the Song Huizong Zhao Yu's "Daguan Tea Theory" on the method of tea.
There is no need for a teapot for tea, so the Song Dynasty does not produce teapots, only fired tea bowls. Therefore, if you encounter an antique tea stall, you should pay attention to the Song Dynasty teapot.
In the Tang Dynasty, the upper class scorned porcelain, drinking more copper bowls, silver bowls and even gold bowls, and also using iron bowls. However, gold and silver are too expensive, copper and iron are too tacky, and the metal tea bowl has astringency, which affects the taste and color of the tea soup. Only the porcelain bowl is the ideal tea set. By the Song Dynasty, it was basically only used to drink tea in porcelain bowls.
Even if you drink green tea now, the taste of the iron pot will be greatly reduced. If Pu'er, you can't taste it.
The color of the Song people is still white, so the tea is the most loved black glaze, and it is considered that this is not the case. Especially like the Jianzhou kiln (located in Shuiji Town, Jianyang County, Fujian Province), the black tea pot is burnt, the tire is thick, the mouth is open or open, the mouth is convergent below, the bottom is small, the small circle is full, the glaze is mainly black, and there are also Sauce purple and other colors. There are rust or brown stripes inside and outside the body, as well as silver stripes such as rabbit hair for the top grade, known as rabbits.
In the "Tea Recordings and Teas", Cai Wei said: "The color of the tea is white, it should be black, the person who built it is black, and the pattern is like a rabbit. The billet is thick and thick, and it is hot and cold. Use. Those who are out of the place, or thin or color purple, are not as good. The blue and white, the tester does not need to."
This kind of tea bowl looks very cumbersome, but it is resistant to high temperature and slow in heat conduction. It is suitable for tea, so it often appears in Song tea poetry.
Such as Su Shi, "Water Tune Head, Ask Daye Elder Peach Blossom Tea": "Old Dragon Group, true phoenix, point to the future. Rabbits are in the middle of nowhere, when you taste your tongue back."
Lu You's "Into the Plum" poems have "Ink test small snails to watch the fight, tea is divided into fine milk to play a cup."
In addition to the rabbits, oil drops, smashing the sky, etc. are also famous in the building.
Huang Tingjian's "Man Tingfang Tea" wrote: "Silicon holding, researching cream splashing, gold freckle".
The "spotted" glaze in Jianye has a silver ash, grayish brown, yellow-brown glaze at different temperatures, or dense or sparse, like feathers, very beautiful.
The magnetic kiln and Yaozhou kiln in the north imitated the silver kiln with spots of glaze, which was called "Northern Tianmu". Others such as Hebei Dingyao, Shanxi Linyi, Huairen Kiln, Sichuan Guangyuan Kiln, etc., can all be seen in the imitation of the style of black glazed tea pot.
In fact, the black tea glaze is not all used in the Song Dynasty. Especially after the Song Dynasty Nandu, Beiyuan tea was devastated, and Jian'ou was shaken as a tribute. From the perspective of existing objects, celadon, white porcelain and secret porcelain samovar were also widely used in the Song Dynasty. This is also evident in the Song and Yuan poetry.
Fan Zhongyan's "Wang and Zhang Zhang engaged in fighting tea" cloud: "Jade in the middle of Cuitao", the celadon tea is compared to the jade, and the tea is not white, but the emerald green tea.
In the Song Dynasty, the northern Yaozhou kiln, the celadon of the Longquan kiln in the south, the white kiln in the north, and the white porcelain in the Jingdezhen kiln in the south all reached a high artistic level.
Especially the tea bowls burned in Jingdezhen of the Southern Song Dynasty belong to the shadow celadon, the tires are thin, glazed white, translucent, very nice.
Zisha tea set can be fired in the Song Dynasty, but when it is purple sand, it is not liked by people. It is mainly because the purple sand is too breathable. In the Song Dynasty, the tea was used as a raw material, and then the boiling water was used as a raw material. Let the tea powder drink with water. It is easy to infiltrate with purple tea soup, and it is not easy to brush clean after drinking tea.
The basic method of ordering tea is to first grind the cake into powder after the tea is brewed, and then use the sieve to sort out the most delicate tea powder into the tea pot, and boil the water in the kettle. Inject a small amount of boiling water into the bowl of the tea and mix it into a paste, then inject the boiling water, or directly inject the boiling water into the tea bowl, and then use the appliance to kill the tea soup.
In the early Song Dynasty, the tea soup was mainly made of metal spoonful teaspoon. The teaspoon was originally used for weighing, and on this basis, the function of killing tea soup was added.
Cai Wei’s "Tea Recorder, Teastick" clearly stated: "The teaspoon should be heavy, the killing is powerful, the gold is the upper, and the human is made of silver and iron. The bamboo is light and the tea is not taken."
However, in the late Northern Song Dynasty, a tool made of fine bamboo was invented, called "tea scent."
In the documentary records of Song Huizong's "Daguan Tea Theory", the tea was mainly used to kill tea.
"Daguan Tea on the ç…" said: "The samovar is made up of the old bamboo stalks. The body is thick and heavy, and it wants to be moved. The desire is strong and the end will be smashed. When it is like a sword ridge. Powerful and easy to use. If you are as nervous as a sword ridge, the smashing will not be born.
From this description, it can be seen that the samovar is a large number of bamboo strips that are cut open and have fine tips. The shape of the samovar has parallel and rounded whiskers, and the shape of the samovar in the Japanese tea ceremony is still the same.
As a kind of tea-adjusting tool, the appearance of samovar is an innovation of the tea-making tool. The structure of the samovar can make the tea soup water-grain and make the tea soup more visual and aesthetic.
In "Daguan Tea Theory", there is a detailed description of the use of tea samovar: "Take the soup, the hand is light and heavy, and there is no such thing as the turtle eye." If you want to order tea, then Need to "hand light weight, refers to the wrist rotation", in order to achieve the ideal effect of "sparing the stars and smashing the moon".
In the tea, the tea is quickly stirred, so that the tea and water are mixed with each other to form a milky tea liquid. The surface is rich in white foam, like a white flower covered with a bowl of noodles, and the water is mixed with milk. It is called “milk surface gathering†and it is not easy to see tea. Separate traces of water from the end, called "cloud feet scattered." The tea soup is thick and sticky at the bottom of the bowl called "bite". The finer the granules of tea, the more difficult it is to make water marks; the more powerful the sniper is, the more the tea is bitten, and the smashing effect is formed.
Pointing tea and boiling water is a crucial step. When people in the Song Dynasty ordered tea, they usually did not use iron pot to boil water, but used a special porcelain bottle to boil water. The Song Dynasty people called it "soup bottle." Soup bottle soup bottles have been more common in the Tang Dynasty, but most of them are wine sets. After the Five Dynasties to the Song Dynasty, the soup bottle was gradually used to boil water for tea.
In the Southern Song Dynasty Luo Dajing, "Helin Yulu" wrote: "In the modern world, the tea is fresh, and the water is used to boil water."
The "bottle" of the boiled water mentioned in the tea book of the Song Dynasty is the "tea bottle", also known as the "soup bottle". Its shape is actually a pot, which is more straightforward than the Tang Dynasty plump in the Tang Dynasty. In the old man's "tea set picture praise", there is an elegant name "Tang Ti Point".
In addition, the Song Dynasty boiled water also has water, tea, tea and so on. But the tea must still use the soup bottle.
In the "Tea Recorder and Soup Bottle", Cai Wei said: "The bottle is small, easy to wait for soup. Another tea is soup, the gold is the top, and the world is made of silver, iron, porcelain and stone." .
Yang Wanli's poem: "Sit on the top of the view, the person is divided into tea" poem: "The silver bottle is still high, and the soup is made to be a slogan. You don't need to change the method. You only ask this bottle to answer."
Su Dongpo's "Test House Sencha" also has the phrase "Silver bottle diarrhea soup exaggerated second".
The soup bottle made of gold is the tea set used by the royal family and the official. For the ordinary people, porcelain soup bottles are the first choice.
Judging from the unearthed tea set of the Song Dynasty, the porcelain broths of the south and the north are all produced, especially in the Yueyao, Longquan kiln and Jingdezhen kiln in the south.
Song Huizong's "Daguan Tea Theory and Bottle" elaborated on the relationship between the soup bottle shape and the soup-point tea: "The bottle should be gold and silver, the size of the system, but the cut. The soup is harmful, the mouth of the bottle The mouth of the mouth is big and straight, then the soup is tight and not scattered. The end of the scorpion wants to be small and sharp, then the soup is knotted without dripping. The tightness of the soup is fast and knotty, no Drip, the tea noodles are not broken."
In order to make the Tang Lili fall, it is convenient to order tea, and the small and sharp mouthpiece becomes an important feature of the Song Dynasty tea bottle. Judging from the existing relics and painting materials, the style of the Song Dynasty soup bottle is mostly extravagant, repairing the abdomen, holding and flowing in the neck of the bottle, and the pot flow is long and oblique, curved, curved, and has a large curvature. Note the requirements for soup tea.
Because the soup bottle is used to boil water and directly order tea, it is easy to hot because of the high temperature during use. Therefore, the bottle holder matched with the soup bottle appeared in the Song Dynasty. Most of the bottle holders are in the shape of a straight bowl. There is a bottle holder, and it is safer to order soup.
When the tea was ordered in the Song Dynasty, the degree of boiling water was emphasized, which was called “waiting soupâ€. Since the bottle wall is opaque, the water is not visible and can only be heard. Listening to the sound of water is the unique skill of the Song Dynasty tea industry. The so-called waiting soup is the most difficult. If it is not ripe, it will float. If it is too ripe, it will sink into tea. Only by mastering the procedure of boiling water, can the color, fragrance and taste of tea be washed out.
In the Song Dynasty, tea was ordered, and the water was changed to a soup bottle with a round neck and a high neck. Because it is difficult to identify the degree of boiling water with the eyes, it is only possible to judge the boiling water by the sound of boiling water.
Luo Dajing of the Southern Song Dynasty detailed the essentials of boiled water in the "Tea Bottle Soup Hou": "The modern world tea, fresh to the tripod, boiled water with a bottle, it is difficult to wait, then when the sound is discerning, boiling, boiling, boiling Festival." When the water is boiling, such as the insects, the sound of the Qingqing Wan Wanming; suddenly there are thousands of cars carrying it, it is the second boiling; listening to the wind and drowning, that is, three boiling, at this time, it should Lift the soup bottle in time, inject the boiled water into the tea pot with the tea powder, and then hit the tea soup with the tea pot until the water and tea are fully blended, and the surface of the tea soup floats with a layer of white tea foam.
Luo Dajing also believes that: the method of tea, the soup is tender and not old, the soup is sweet, and the old is bitter.
Order a bowl of delicious tea, the regulation of water temperature is very important. Therefore, it is very important to adjust the charcoal fire in the process of tea. There is a saying of “three charcoalâ€, that is, the bottom fire, the initial charcoal (the first carbon addition), and the charcoal (the second time is the last carbon addition).
The unique Song Dynasty tea style has been popular for hundreds of years, throughout the Song Dynasty. However, due to the laborious and laborious production of cake tea, and the tea sap in the process of making tea, the true taste of tea was lost. After the Yuan Dynasty, this elegant and lavish tea art was dying.
After the Ming Taizu Zhu Yuanzhang smashed the tribute tea, the tea technique in the Song Dynasty was annihilated. The tea tea set that is quite aesthetically interesting has disappeared, so that people do not know that there is a tea pot.
Although the tea method is in the secular society, it is preserved in the Zen Temple in the form of tea etiquette and spreads to Japan. In particular, the Zen Master of the Song Dynasty in the Kamakura era was introduced to Japan from the Southern Song Dynasty and formed the Japanese "Matcha Tao".
Tea-rolling in the process of tea is often mentioned in the Song Dynasty tea poem. In the Northern Song Dynasty, the West Lake Lonely Mountain hermit Lin Biao has the poem "Cooking Beiyuan Tea has nostalgia": "Stone crushed fly and sorrow dust, frankincense cooked Jianxichun. The world's best people are hard to know, and the "Tea Classic" recalls the ancients."
Fan Zhongyan has a sentence of "Golden Rolling Green Dust Flying" in "Wang Zhangye Engaged in Tea Fighting".
Another example is Lu You's "Whey smells the tea": "The seven bowls of Tamagawa Hesher, there is no sleep in the sound of copper."
Explain that grinding tea is an elegant thing in the life of a literati, no less than the smoky tobacco that used to absorb smoke from the countryside. And from these verses we know that tea mills are both stone and metal such as gold and copper. In the Tang Dynasty, Lu Yu advocated the use of woody teas such as orange, pear and mulberry. The royal aristocracy is distinguished and often uses silver gilt tea.
The tea in the Song Dynasty has extremely high requirements on the smell, color and granules of the tea, so the material of the tea mill is also very particular. Cai Wei believes that "tea is made of silver or iron. Gold is soft, copper and stone. Both can produce oysters and are not used." Emperor Huizong of the Song Dynasty also believed that "the silver is the top, and the wrought iron is the second. The iron producers are not made by the scouring, and there are black chips hidden in the gaps, especially the color of tea."
In addition to tea mills, the Song Dynasty milled tea also used stone tea mill.
Su Shi’s "The Second Rhyme Dong Yi Zhong Tea Mill" cloud "calculates the best for grinding, and believes that wise people can create things." Stone grinding will not be harmful to brown, and it is closer to nature in terms of physical properties.
Su Ting’s student Huang Tingjian is a native of Hongzhou in the Song Dynasty (now Jiangxi Xiushui). His real estate Shuangjing tea is also a tribute tea. Huang Tingjian has a poem "Shuangjing Tea to send the child": "My family Jiangnan picks up the clouds, and it is not as good as falling snow." The "碨" in the poem refers to the tea mill. The tea leaves are grinded, and the white tea ends are coming down.
Lu You’s many poems also mention “碨â€. For example, in the "Village House Miscellaneous Book", there is a sentence of "snow falling red silk, fragrant silver and no silver"; "Xi De Jian Tea" has a verse "Snowy Ridge Red Silk", and the "Red Silk" described in the poem A stone with a red silk pattern in the stone.
Liu Songnian, the famous painter of the Southern Song Dynasty Painting Institute, best reflects the method of drinking tribute tea by the imperial court, bureaucrats and scribes of the Song Dynasty. In the painting, a tea drinker is grinding tea with tea. It can be seen from the formation of a dusty atmosphere around the tea mill that the finished tea powder is extremely fine. There is also a brown brush on the edge of the tea mill, which is used to sweep the milled tea leaves to the heart and grind again. After many times of grinding, the tea is collected by a brown brush and placed in a tea pot on the table for tea.
The main content of the tea activities in the Song Dynasty was "battle tea."
As early as the end of the Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties, the “tea fight†was popular in Fujian. In Tang Fengxuan's "Note Beads", it is recorded that "the construction of people is fighting tea is a battle."
The fighting tea began in the Tang Dynasty and flourished in the Song Dynasty. After some local teas were made, the tea farmers also competed for the new tea products. At the same time, it compares the level of skill and skill of tea fightrs.
Later, fighting tea gradually became popular among the upper class and the scholars.
After being spread to Japan through Japanese monks, Doo Tea has developed into a "tea ceremony" that integrates Japanese culture, culture and art on the basis of continuous integration into Japan's aesthetic taste.
Song Huizong is also a fan of tea. In his "Daguan Tea Theory", he praised Doo Tea as "the Qing Dynasty".
In Cai Jing's "Yanfu Palace Music Banquet", there is a scene in which Song Huizong personally fought tea with the princes' ministers: "In the second year of Xuanhe's reign, he called the prince and other banquets in Yanfu Palace. On the near life to take the tea set, hand-injected soup to hit the finger, a small amount of white milk floating surface, such as Shuxing light moon, Gu Zhuchen said: this self-clothing tea. Thank you for your drink.
The main form of fighting tea popular in the folk is to judge the advantages and disadvantages of tea technology and tea. Fighting tea is also known as "the battle of war".
The process of the "fight war" in the Song Dynasty is as follows:
First listed. The tea bowl is also said to be the tea bowl, also known as the tea pot, the sand bottle, also called the soup bottle, the lotus bowl, that is, the tea bowl tray, the material is gold, silver, copper, iron, porcelain, lacquer, and various shapes. Everything.
Then start tea, lightly bake tea cake, remove moisture and make the tea fragrant.
After the tea is finished, the tea is started and the tea powder is ground with a special tea mill.
After milling, use a sieve to sift through the sieve and filter the slightly coarse tea leaves.
Then wait for the soup.
After the water is opened, it will be hot, and the tea will be boiled with hot water, also called ç‚™ç›. In Cai Yu's "Tea Record", the so-called "Where you want to order tea, you must first order the heat, and the cold will not float." When it comes to hygiene, the second thing is to keep the temperature of the tea, because "cold tea does not float."
Then adjust the cream, put the tea into the tea pot, first adjust the porridge with a small amount of boiling water, dissolve the tea juice.
Finally, it is called killing. While boiling water to the tea pot, it will be beaten with a tea pot to stir the tea soup, and then a layer of foam will form on the surface of the tea pot.
The foam stays on the samovar for a long time, the foam dissipates the water on the inner wall of the samovar, and the time is long, and the color of the tea is bright and white.
The Song people divided the tea grade into seven grades, with the first grade as the top grade and the seventh grade as the final grade.
The factors that determine the outcome of fighting tea are soup color, and the second is soup flower. Finally, the taste, fragrance and color are comprehensively evaluated. The color of the soup refers to the color of the tea soup. The standard at that time was pure free milk, and other colors were waiting. The color of the soup is a reflection of the technique of making tea. If the color is pure white, it indicates that the tea is fresh and tender, and the production is excellent; if the color is green, it means that the steam is not enough; when the color is gray, the steam is too hot; if the color is yellow, the tea is not harvested. Timely; reddish color is too hot when baking.
Soup flower refers to the foam of the noodle soup. The color of the soup is the same as the color of the soup. After the soup blooms, if the tea is finely ground, the soup and the agitation are just right. When the soup is evenly thin, you can bite the ridge and gather for a long time. This effect is called biting, which is good tea.
Tea soup should be good for taste, fragrance and color, in order to be the final winner.
In addition to fighting tea, there are tea banquets in the Song Dynasty.
Tea banquets vary from guest to guest, and there are three types of tea banquets, tea banquets and tea banquets. The tea will be purely tea, in order to entertain the social elites; tea and fruit banquet, tea and tea with fruit and fruit, to meet the old friends and family; the tea banquet is the real tea banquet, in addition to tea With tea. The way of the tea banquet, the pursuit of clean and simple, elegant and elegant, with Qingyi Tanya as the main purpose, similar to the current tea party.
The official record of the tea banquet was found in the middle Tang Dynasty. Qian Qi, one of the ten talents of the Da Li, had a tea party with Zhao Wei. The place was chosen in Zhulin, but it was not like the “Bamboo Seven Talentsâ€, but instead of tea. Let's talk together, wash the dust, and talk about the sunset in the snoring. Qian Qi wrote this poem for the event, and wrote a poem about "Zhao Xi Tea Ceremony": "The bamboo is forgotten to the purple tea, the full victory of the feathers is drunk and flowing. The dust is washed hard and the whole tree is smashed."
Song Huizong's "Wenhui Map" painted the scene of the Song Dynasty literati in a courtyard. In the painting, a boy holding a long-handled tea pot is putting a good tea soup into the tea pot from the tea pot. The tea is blue and green, and it belongs to the porcelain system. There is a black tea tray under the armpit, which may be painted. In the existing Song Dynasty, there are many tea trays that are the same as the tea.
In the Song Dynasty, some temples in Wuyi Mountain were popular as "tea banquets". Zhu Xiju, a five-fifth, often went to the Kaishan Temple tea party with his friends. He had a good relationship with the abbot, and he often tasted tea and talked about the Buddha. Yuan Wu Yuan Lian, Zhu Xi as a condolence poem: "One other person has nothing to do, burning incense and hate meet."
The most representative of the Zen Forest Tea Banquet is the Tea Ceremony of the Trail Mountain Temple. The Jingshan Temple was built in the Tang Dynasty. It is now a beautiful place in Yuhang, Zhejiang. A tea banquet is held every spring in the Tang and Song Dynasties.
In the first year of Kaiqing in the Southern Song Dynasty (1259), the Japanese monk Nanpu Zhaoming came to the Temple of the Mountain to seek Buddhism. After five years of study, he returned to China and passed the tea ceremony of the Mountain Temple to Japan. On this basis, the "tea theory" was formed and developed. Today's "Japanese tea ceremony."
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