The Key Techniques of Nectarine Facilities Cultivation

One, pruning technology

(a) Pruning before the temperature rise of the coating film removes the big branch that disturbs the tree and adjusts the angle of the main branch. In order to ensure a higher yield in the following year, the long branch pruning method is used to keep as many branches as possible and to reduce the number of branches. Remove or straighten the long fruiting branches on the back, and extend the branches. Long-term fruiting branches, short-cut fruit branches. Sparse squid, pests and branches, over dense branches and overlapping branches.

(II) Pruning during film-covering Due to the high temperature and humidity in the facility, the germination rate is significantly increased, and new shoots should be prevented from being intensive and lengthy. The buds and tender shoots were improperly removed when they sprouted. After fruiting, the shoots were sprayed with paclobutrazol 300 times as much as l0 cm long, or repeatedly picked up when they reached 20 cm in length. The drooping branches, dense branches, and fruitless branches were removed.

(C) After trimming the nectarine fruit after trimming the fruit, perform a short pruning on the resulting shoots to promote new results. Generally, 2 to 3 buds are cut short at the base of the resulting shoots, and large fruiting branches are eliminated, and 2 to 3 shoots of about 30 cm are left. After pruning, it is prone to occur strong phenomenon, resulting in the relocation of the resulting site. The competition branches and dense branches on the strong site should be removed promptly so that the extension branch is uniaxially extended.

Second, fertilizer and water management

(1) Fertilizer facilities are mainly cultivated with organic fertilizers, and as little or as little fertilizer as possible is used, especially with less nitrogen fertilizer. Organic fertilizers include manure, chickens, pigs, cattle, horses, sheep manure, green manures, grass ash, and various cake fats, which are mainly used as base fertilizers. Fertilizer mainly inorganic fertilizer.

Base fertilizer should be applied in early September. There are four main periods for dressing:

(1) Before warming up, if there is insufficient basal fertilizer in the fall, you can top-up compound fertilizer;

(2) Before flowering, topdressing nitrogen and phosphate fertilizers to promote root growth, ensure flowering and fertilization, and increase fruit set rate. If the amount of basal fertilizer is large, this time can not be applied;

(3) Before the hard core, the shoots grow vigorously. If the nutrient is insufficient, the young fruit can hardly get the nutrients needed, resulting in fruit drop. Nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers can be topdressed to promote the development of embryos and nuclei;

(4) Fruit enlargement period, such as more fruit set and less organic fertilizer application, appropriate amount of topdressing nitrogen fertilizer is beneficial to fruit development, but potassium fertilizer should be added to improve fruit quality. If the tree vigor is weak after harvesting, some nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium compound fertilizers can be applied.

Nectarine requires more potassium, and its absorption is 1.6 times that of nitrogen, thus meeting the needs of potassium, is the key to high yield and quality. Basal fertilizer applies high quality organic fertilizer per mu (mixture of chicken manure or other) from 10,000 to 15,000 kilograms, and 100 kilograms of superphosphate, 3 kilograms of borax, and 4 kilograms of ferrous sulfate. Topdressing fertilizer before planting Mushi 15 kg of urea, hard nuclear anaerobic compound fertilizer 25 to 30 kg (N: P: K = l: l: 2), fruit expansion application of potash fertilizer about 95 kg. In order for the fertilizer to quickly exert its fertilizer effect, it should be immediately filled with fertilizer. From the expansion of young fruit to fruit ripening, in order to meet the needs of new shoots and fruit growth and development, in addition to soil fertilization, the leaves should be sprayed fertilizer. During the expansion of young fruit, spray 0.3% to 0.5% of potassium dihydrogen phosphate every 10 days.

(2) Irrigation and Drainage Irrigation shall be determined according to the water requirements of each phenology period, combined with soil conditions and fertilization. Before the warming, the entire greenhouse was filled with water for 1 time, followed by germination water, hard core water, fruit expansion water, post-harvest water, and once-frozen water at the beginning of December. The irrigation condition was determined by drought conditions. Apply irrigation after each fertilization. The irrigation should be prohibited 7 to 10 days before fruit harvest, otherwise the quality will decline. In particular, nectarine varieties should pay attention to the balanced supply of water, do not use large water to prevent cracking. Peach trees are afraid of flooding, and the rainy season must pay attention to timely drainage.
Third, temperature control

(A) The indoor temperature control anti-heat insulation treatment shall begin in the middle and mid-November of November, cover the shed, cover grass hoe during the day, roll up and open the vent at night to ensure that the shed temperature is less than 7 Â°C, after 1 ~ 1.5 months, can be passed Sleep naturally.

The buckle shed warms up to the temperature control before flowering. After the peach tree meets its cooling capacity, it can be warmed to relieve sleep. Generally, the time for sleeping nectarines that need to cool 800 hours in the Shijiazhuang area of â€‹â€‹our province is January 5, and in the northeastern part of the province is the end of December. If the anti-heat insulation treatment is performed, it can go through hibernation in mid-December. In other words, if the anti-heat insulation treatment is performed, the temperature rise time is mid-December, and if there is no treatment, the temperature rise is generally performed in early January. The temperature in this period is related to whether the flower buds can normally enlarge and germinate, whether the pollen grains can be formed, whether the flowering is normal, and whether the fruit setting rate is high. If the temperature is too high at this time, the phenophase will progress too quickly, normal pollen grains will not be formed, pollen will be reduced or no pollens, the viability will be reduced, the flowers will be small, the development of the stigma and ovary will be incomplete, and the fruit setting rate will be low. Flowers are not real," he said.

The initial stage of warming is divided into 3 stages. The first stage: During the day, only a small amount of grasshoppers were lifted, and some grasshopper fronts were lifted. The greenhouse was heated by a small amount of sunlight. The daytime temperature is maintained at 13-15Â°C, nighttime temperature is 6-8Â°C, and is not lower than 0Â°C for 5-7 days. In the second stage, some grasshoppers were pulled up and all were drafted. The room temperature was maintained at 16-18Â°C during the day and 7-10Â°C during the night for 5-7 days. The third stage: Pull up most grasshoppers, often open the skylight to eliminate humidity and cool down. Keep at room temperature for 20 to 25Â°C during the day and 7 to 10Â°C at night until peach blossoms last for about 20 days. Unheated plastic greenhouses warm up around mid-February. After warming up, the temperature and humidity control is basically the same as that of a solar greenhouse.

The flowering period must strictly control the temperature. General requirements during the day 15 ~ 20 Â°C, preferably 18 Â°C, because this temperature is conducive to bee activity, can not be higher than 25 Â°C, if more than 22 Â°C will have to let the wind cool, night 8 ~ 10 Â°C, not less than 5 Â°C. If the temperature is insufficient, the pollen tube grows slowly. Before reaching the embryo sac, the embryo sac has lost its ability to be fertilized. If the temperature is too high, fertile pollen will be reduced, affecting pollination, and the stigma will dry quickly, affecting pollination, fertilization, and fruit setting rate. If the temperature is too low, it will cause floral damage at low temperature. During this period, we should pay attention to the weather forecast and strengthen the night insulation.

Young fruit period temperature is generally 22 ~ 24 Â°C during the day, 10 ~ 15 Â°C at night, the temperature can be slightly higher during fruit ripening, during the day 25 ~ 30 Â°C, 12 ~ 16 Â°C at night, not less than 10 Â°C. This period is mainly to prevent overheating during the day and cause new shoots, fruit drop and fruit physiological disorders. Pay attention to clearing the haystack when it is cloudy. When it comes to cloudy days, it is necessary to assist warming and auxiliary lighting.

(b) soil temperature control Soil temperature above 0 Â°C can be smoothly absorbed and assimilated nitrogen, 15 ~ 20 Â°C is the root growth of the most suitable temperature. In the early stage of facility cultivation, it is necessary to raise the ground temperature to achieve the balance of root growth and long-lasting leaves. Otherwise, the emergence of buds will be slow and irregular, which will affect the fruit setting rate. Therefore, it is very important to strengthen soil temperature management before and after coating (increasing soil temperature) and coordinate soil temperature and temperature. The main measure is to fully irrigate water before the film is covered for 20 to 30 days, and then cover the film. The film must be covered as soon as possible. If it is too late (near the film) or after the film is covered with the film, it will have little effect on increasing the temperature and even make the soil less effective. Temperature rises more slowly.

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